Posts tagged ukraine
A worthwhile trip: Kiev
May 16th
So. Having just sat through a session working on my mother’s tax returns (trickier this year because she sold a house and her sense of maniacal fear of an audit has exponentially increased in the past year) I started thinking about if I could take a vacation where would I go. It’s been a couple of years since I took a trip vacation so this was a good mental exercise. And having written about Paris (almost 
always my number one choice initially) around Christmas time I thought I would settle down and explain my typical second choice/option when thinking of going away. And yes. It may seem an unusual one. It’s Kiev in Ukraine.
Kyiv (also spelled Kiev) is the beautiful and interesting capital of the Ukraine. Sure. A Long flight but it’s worth it. My first trip to Kiev began auspiciously. Okay. Hilariously.
Despite the fact I had a couple people there I knew they hesitated to tell me a specific hotel but suggested choosing one of three (I have since stayed at Premiere Palace every time after the initial trip and I highly recommend although expensive). Anyway. Not really knowing where to stay, I chose one and it ended up part of my visit coincided with one of those “males seeking eastern European brides” conventions or whatever they call them. A bunch of goofy looking guys wandering around the lobby and into this ballroom place where hundreds of women and girls decked out in their best clothes trying to communicate with guys who just wanted to get in their pants. And I truly mean hundreds of girls and maybe 25 to 30 guys. I should have taken pictures.
What made it even more surreal were the “ladies of the night” hanging out in the bar day and night sipping tea and watching the comings and goings. Anyway. I had hired a translator (a delightful graduate student studying diplomatic studies at the university) who laughed her ass off at me, and my naiveté, when she came to meet me at the hotel the first time.
About the city itself. Founded more than 1,500 years ago, the city of Kyiv was destroyed in 1240 by Mongol-Tatar invaders. In pat history Ukraine was always a powerful force on the European scene because of its size, population and huge agricultural output but Ukraine’s fate in modern history for the most part, has been defined by foreign occupation (Russia most notably). Kyiv suffered severely during World War II, and many architectural and art treasures were destroyed. Earlier in the 1930′s the Soviet authorities (mainly under Stalin) systematically destroyed many churches and other places of worship. Even so, Kiev is one of the historically richest cities in Eastern Europe and many amazing churches and structures remain. If you’re into medieval onion domed Orthodox cathedrals, you find an endless choice to discover and explore. Don’t miss St. Vladimir’s Cathedral, St. Sophia’s Cathedral and St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Monastery as well as the amazing Cave Monastery and the awesome murals inside the Trinity Gate Church. If you have time for only one It must be the Ukrainian Baroque style St. Sofia’s Cathedral founded in the 11th century and rebuilt in the 17-18th centuries which is on top of a hill with a beautiful cobblestone pavilion.
Anyway. Kiev. It is located along the banks of the Dnipro River (actually split by the river in some sections) but the bulk of the city is one side (the hilly side). It has authentic Eastern European charm while yet in sections there is a Soviet flavor in the architecture and boulevards with dark stoic buildings. It is easily a walking city (although the hills can make it a good work out) and easy to explore. With its shining golden domed Orthodox churches and ancient monasteries and museums and underground shopping centers (because of the winters they have several full shopping centers built under the streets of the city which you can wander almost endlessly and never go outside) there are a variety of things to do and see. For those who want to seek out aspects from the Soviet era, such as the typical Stalinist colonnaded subway stations, massive bronze monuments, giant statues of Lenin and others, and elegant but thick sturdy dominant 20th century buildings, you won’t be disappointed in Kiev.
Getting around is very easy (although if you don’t read Cyrillic you are kind of screwed in reading street signs and stuff like that). The underground train (subway, metro, whatever) is efficient, extensive, and with some creative guessing, you will arrive at your destination (and the underground station is REALLY underground … like way underground … the escalators to the stations are often very steep and long). Some people suggest you avoid “taxis” (and I use this term loosely).
Well. They don’t have taxis. What you do is stand on the side of the street and stick your hand out and some normal everyday person (typically driving some car that has seen its better days) suddenly pulls over and you lean in tell them where you want to go and negotiate a price. Sometimes they are alone. Sometimes they have family. But they are always friendly. Frankly, even if you don’t negotiate a good price it just doesn’t cost much. You can hand over about 20 grivna (about 4 bucks) and get almost anywhere.
Plus. The whole “waving down a family car” thing is fun. Okay. The first time seems weird. The first time I was in Kiev I asked my translator what she wanted to do that she had never had an opportunity to do and she wanted to go bowling (go figure). The only bowling alley was outside the city. I say sure. She steps out. Waves her hand. A gray pre World War II Lada putters up the road and pulls over (I am pretty sure it still had the same clutch it originally came with). She starts arguing with the driver. Next thing I know we are in the back seat chatting away with the driver. Awesome experience (oh. She hated bowling). It is the way to get around the city. It is fun. You meet locals. You get to here whatever is playing on their radio.
Walking the alleys and boulevards in Kiev is very reminiscent of Russian cities such as Moscow and St. Petersburg (and unlike anywhere in the United States).
But. The absolute best is slowly strolling down Kiev’s main boulevard, Khreshchatyk Street, day or night. This broad avenue is lined with giant trees and huge forbidding Stalinist gray brick/concrete buildings. It is just “big.”
Khreshchatyk is often off-limits to vehicular traffic on weekends at which time it becomes the playground for local artists and street sellers of trinkets and clothing and whatever. Plus. It becomes a place for those who want to see and be seen. The boulevard closing on a weekend is worth the trip. Throughout the city there are narrow cobblestone walkways and you should head for the Andriivsky Descent which is this narrow winding street, one of the oldest in Kiev, and home to many art galleries, artists at work, street art markets, and cafes (very reminiscent of some narrow streets in say San Francisco but with incredible architecture and looming buildings on each side).
I got really lucky on my first trip. Between my translator (who brought me to the coolest nightclubs and introduced me to her college friends who called me “Leon” – from the movie Assassin – because of how much older I was from everyone in the g
roup and how I my translator and I interacted and the pizza places with awesome draft beer and pool tables) and my friends who already lived/worked there (who brought me to the English speaking bars – Canadian, Irish and British – and the rare coffee shops .. because most Ukrainians drink tea) I had an incredible first experience which set me up for future visits of being on my own if I needed to.
Oh. I know I am talking a lot about walking. So people always ask me about the weather. I have been there at Christmas time and they haven’t had snow yet (but it got a very crisp cold at night). I have been there in May and walked around in short sleeves. I have been there in July and it was warm. It won’t be as cold as you think (the city is further south in Europe than you think). Odessa in the south of Ukraine is a hot beach city. Go north of Kiev and you can freeze your ass off (just go ahead and visit St. Petersburg at Christmas and you will find that out pronto).
Okay. The people. I have never met a single rude or unfriendly person in my 6 or so visits. The language barrier is not well managed by older people who often may shrug you off rather than to make any effort to communicate but approach a young person and I can almost guarantee they will speak some English. In fact many want to practice it with you. The locals enjoy their lives whole heartedly. They are some of the most incredibly pleasant and helpful people, not to mention some of whom must be amongst the most beautiful people in the world (I admit I was surprised by how many taller thin red headed women there were). While household incomes are generally low the locals spend a great amount of money on their appearance and wear fashionable clothes. You will feel like you are I the middle of a fashion show walking down some of the main streets especially on the weekends on the main boulevard. The women dress in heels and dresses and look impeccable at all times. The men wear suits but it is the women who truly dress up. Oh. The women also have this truly charming habit of walking arm in arm wherever they go (and they laugh a lot). It is really charming.
There are rarely signs of poverty on the streets. Be prepared to see many people walking the streets with a bottle of beer in the hand or liquor (particularly Vodka). Awesome. Note. Best vodka I have EVER drank was Ukrainian and one of the least expensive vodkas I have ever purchased.
The locals speak Ukrainian or Russian (there are some differences). Your only hope of communication in English is with the younger generation. Most, if not all, of the street signs are in Cyrillic characters so it is helpful to learn some basics (or bring a pocket dictionary) before arriving.
As for the food. Several restaurants serve up traditional Ukrainian meals with typical Russian and Ukrainian dishes. But surprisingly there are not that many truly unique dishes. Their food is … well … food. But. Make sure not to miss the borsch (cold beet soup) and the varenyky dumplings with cabbage, potatoes or meat. But the best is the Vodka. Served chilled at meals it should be your friend. It is
inexpensive and better than any vodka you can buy in the states.
Getting there. You may be surprised to know that no visa is required for Americans (who stay for less than 90 days). Flights are long but easy. You can actually fly direct from Kennedy in NYC. But most flights connect thru De Gaulle (Paris) or Amsterdam. Keep in mind. Flying from Paris to Kiev is like flying from Los Angeles to New York City (about same distance). Not knowing that on my first trip I ignorantly thought as I caught my connecting flight “I am almost there”. Yeah. Not so fast.
It is a great city. And very very different from American cities as well as western European cities. If you are interested, Chernobyl (the nuclear reactor which exploded in April 1986) which is just over 100km north of Kyiv has a good museum in Kiev (sad, frightening and eye opening). I believe if you are adventuresome there are some approved trips out to Chernobyl.
Anyway. Kiev. My second favorite city in the world. Anyway. A great trip if you take it.
Orange Revolution Dies: Ukraine Part 2
Apr 5th
(subtitled: Democracy struggles on)
I have written several times about how difficult democracy is. Well. Democracy took an uppercut to the jaw several weeks ago and ain’t gonna be getting back up in Ukraine. And I am sad because I was there when democracy took its first step in Ukraine 5 years ago. And I have friends in Ukraine.
So. Because most of us probably weren’t paying much attention Ukrainians cast their first presidential ballots since the 2004 Orange Revolution Sunday January 17, 2010. Unfortunately this was the first step in the election that would end up steering the country from its pro Western course and strengthen ties with Russia. Yup. Last week they elected President Yanukovych who wants to move Ukraine’s foreign policy closer to Russia’s, and opposes joining NATO (as do most Ukrainians).
They are calling this the final farewell to the Orange Revolution. This election stamped the revolution’s outcome a failure by rejecting, even if by a close margin, one of the Orange Revolution’s founders, Yulia Tymoshenko with her fashion trademark, a golden braid. (International observers deemed this election to be an “impressive” display of democracy, though Ms. Tymoshenko claims fraud and I would reserve judgment until we see whether they ever have another “democratic” election ever again).
Oh. On a separate note I do worry this fraud thing may begin to become the greatest legacy of Democracy (see United States, Afghanistan, Ukraine, etc. elections as examples).
Anyway. The election itself was democracy at its best. The turnout to vote was massive. In the initial election voters trudged toward the polls in light snow in the capital Kiev early in the morning and at one polling station in the eastern city of Donetsk, officials encouraged voters with vodka, sausage and salo, or lard, a traditional Ukrainian hors d’oeuvre. (who says democracy cannot be fun).
In the initial vote former prime minister Viktor Yanukovych, a pro-Russian figure that was the target of the 2004 Orange-led mass protests, ended up having the support of about a third of voters. He was followed closely by Prime Minister Yulia Tymoshenko, an Orange leader from the 2004 election. The current President, Viktor Yushchenko, propelled to power by the 2004 protests, finished out of the running. Yuschenko sought to build bridges with the West and to reduce Russia’s influence in Ukraine, antagonizing Moscow. But. Despite his 2004 victory his performance since then has many voters holding him responsible for the country’s political gridlock and economic troubles. (basically he sucked when given the opportunity).
There were about 18 overall candidates but because none of them ended up with more than 50% there was a final run off between the top two vote getters. (Yanukovych and Tymoshenko). At that stage Ukrainians were publicly underwhelmed with their options as noted by S. Grybok “But, as Ukrainians are now saying, we must choose the least bad of the two.”
Anyway. With the election complete and a new “democracy leader” how does Russia feel? (which, as a reminder, used to love having Ukraine as part of its humble “union”).
Russian President Dmitry Medvedev said the results of Ukraine’s presidential election reflected the country’s desire to improve ties with Russia.
Medvedev expressed the hope that Russia-Ukraine relations would return to a partnership approach under the new president elect Viktor Yanukovych. (I have to admit that I don’t really remember any of the soviet nations as having “partnership relations” with Russia.)
Yanukovych, certainly not disappointing Russia in any way with his words, has pledged to end Ukraine’s efforts to join NATO and to elevate Russian to the status of a second official language after Ukrainian.
In addition, he has said he would postpone consideration of the future of Moscow’s lease on its naval base in Sevastopol, home to the Russian Black Sea fleet. The lease expires in 2017.
But. I would tend to believe that is simply rhetoric at this stage. (just my opinion)
So. What does this all mean.
The Ukraine presidential elections look to have brought the country in a disturbing full circle.
(another step toward the revised semi-reunited soviet union?)
Voters apparently returned to support Viktor Yanukovich, the villain in the country’s democratic “Orange Revolution” of 2004. It was after fraudulent elections just over five years ago, when Mr. Yanukovich was declared the presidential winner, that Ukrainians persistently protested the phony results and eventually saw them thrown out. Their peaceful demonstrations rattled Ukraine’s eastern neighbor, Russia. With Yanukovich now in office the link between Ukraine and Russia solidifies (and they are a lot less rattled).
Ukraine needs to move forward instead of chasing its tail. Yet since the revolution, its democratic leaders have been running in circles, fighting each other while doing little to advance needed political and economic reforms. Last year, Ukraine’s economy contracted by a breathtaking 15 percent. Ukraine, the size of France, is simply too important to fail from anyone’s point of view and in particular Russia now.
And I don’t believe now that it has a Russia friendly government it will.
Sandwiched between Russia and Western Europe, Ukraine has the potential to act as a stabilizing economic and political bridge between Moscow and the West.
But. I would guess that it will be Russia that will bring Ukraine back and the gap that needs to be bridged (between Russia and West) will be larger.
But. That’s just my opinion.
Oh. And there is more to think about (remembering the whole Soviet Union thing).
Ukraine gets added to Belarus and Kazakhstan and Abkhazia who are committed to relationships with Russia. (the Customs Union it is called without Ukraine to date)
Abkhazia states the direction others could choose as Democracy struggles.
“Abkhazia is set to have a dialogue with all countries in the region. But the main and only strategic ally of ours is Russia. Our feelings in relations with Russia have not changed after the recognition of our independence” said the leader of Abkhazia Sergei Bagapsh when speaking in Moscow before the students of MGIMO (Moscow State Institute of International Relations). He further states, “We are anxiously watching the situation in Ukraine, are having a dialogue with Belarus in the expectation that it recognizes our statehood, and in the end, it will be easier for us to join the Union State.”
So. Do I believe there will be a new Soviet Union? Well. Certainly not the way it was before.
I do believe there is a strong possibility of what I would call a “Democunist” bloc of countries.
Huh? Democunists?
Countries that have populations that love the idea of Democracy but retain the comfort of Communism.
When democracy struggles like it just did in Ukraine something will step in to fill the void. I have said many times before. Democracy is tough.
The Anniversary of Ukraine’s Orange Revolution
Dec 26th
December 26, 2004. I was there. On that day Ukrainians went back to the election booths and a majority of them again voted for true democratic candidate, Viktor Yushchenko (an earlier “politically managed” election had his opposition – Russian supported – winning a very close, corrupt election). This time the election successfully voted Yushchenko into office.
Viktor Yushchenko
This was the culmination of an amazing 17 days (I was only there for 4 of them), through harsh cold and sleet, where millions of Ukrainians staged nationwide nonviolent protests that came to be known as the “Orange Revolution.” The entire world watched this outpouring of the people’s will in a country whose international image had been warped by its Russian-supported corrupt rulers. By the time victory was announced–with Viktor Yushchenko’s electoral triumph–the Orange Revolution had set a major new landmark in the post communist history of Eastern Europe.
Election Night in Kiev
It was a win for democracy. It was exciting. And it reminded me that:
(1) I think we sometimes take democracy for granted here in the good ole US of A.
(2) Democracy is tough.
(3) Significant change – complete overhaul – is even tougher.
But first let me say. It was an amazing place to be at that time. The political parties’ supporters were defined by orange and blue respectively. Throughout the city people wore their colors proudly. Streams of cars would drive the streets, horns blaring and colors streaming from their windows and antennas. There was pushing and shoving and yelling and the entire city just crackled with energy. It became even more special to me when that day I stepped into the elevator at my hotel and found myself sharing the space with Kofi Anan (who was pleasantly cordial…and interestingly – we Americans should note – he recognized me as an American even though I said nothing and addressed me in English).
That night into the following morning, Independence Square was filled with people, with music playing and speakers addressing the crowd. Khreschatyk Boulevard, the main street, was closed off and filled with street vendors and food and musicians. I am fairly sure the city did not sleep that night. And I was in the midst basking in their excitement.
But as I remember that spectacular experience, back to the three things it reminds me of:
Taking democracy for granted
“Razom nas bahato! Nas ne podolaty!” This was the chant I listened to in the crowd of hundreds of thousands that filled Kiev’s Independence Square on December 26th. “Together, we are many! We cannot be defeated!” Emerging from a sea of orange, the mantra signaled the rise of a powerful civic movement, a skilled political opposition group, and a determined middle class that had come together to stop the ruling elite from falsifying an election and hijacking Ukraine’s presidency. (maybe a precursor to the Obama campaign).
These people fought for democracy. And these people fought against communist memories. The majority of voters had lived under a communist regime at one time or another. They knew exactly what they didn’t want. And maybe that is what we forget having lived within only a democracy…what we don’t want. We have only had democracy and sometimes it is easy to overlook what you have. We shouldn’t.
Democracy is tough.
Democracy is about pluralism (I know that is simplistic but throw me a bone). Inherent in pluralism is being open and listening. Let’s face it…listening is difficult. Even in your own small world in business or life how many good listeners do you know? They are in the minority. People are so busy talking or shouting out their point of views they forget we are a country of “freedom to.” But that is tough. And that underlying belief foundation makes it not only tough for us (who have lived, ate and breathed it for 200+ years) but think about how tough it is for someone in which it is new.
For anyone out there who simply suggests countries are better off with democracy, make sure you think very hard about that. Yes. Democracy is powerful and good in intentions. But it is tough. And it is tougher than simply saying “we are now a democracy.” The Orange Revolution is five years old and they are still struggling to get their arms around the democracy thing. But they won’t quit (and that is the power of democracy).
Significant change – complete overhaul – is even tougher.
Let’s say the Boston Red Sox bought the Yankees and the Yankees ceased to exist and had to become part of the Red Sox nation (or vice versa if that pained you too much). Okay. I don’t mean to diminish the democracy of an entire country but you get the point.
I don’t care if you are a small company, a person trying to change habitual behavior or an entire country…wholesale change is tough. As a guy who has managed business transition I do know I like some of the old incorporated into the lot of the new when transitioning. In this case I am not sure they could…or maybe they tried but I couldn’t see it…or even if it is applicable here. What I do know is that wholesale change is never seamless.
And change, transition, requires people with resilience to ‘stay the course.’ I am pretty sure Victor Yushchenko, the Orange winner and current president, won’t make it past this point. And in a way it is a shame and in a way that is the way change works. People play roles. His was to forge the initial structure to make way for the next person to take it to the next level.
As I conclude this story and thought: I love Kiev. It is one of my favorite cities in the world. I love the Ukrainian people and their culture. But I truly respect Ukraine having experienced the height of the Orange Revolution. It was an amazing experience. I would like to think I am a slightly better person for that experience. I do know for sure that I take our democracy and country a little less for granted because of that experience.
So pull out The Constitution one day. Scan The Bill of Right
s. We are a lucky group of people who had some pretty damn smart and resilient people who started this thing we call America. Don’t take it for granted.
